Thursday, January 27, 2011

Tampa's SOHO District

On any given night along south Howard Avenue, aromas cascade through the air, carried by the breeze off Hillsborough Bay and into the noses of those in search of a meal.
The smells of poached fish and hot pizza, spicy baked chicken and cafe con leche linger in pockets through the neighborhood, enticing us to make a choice. Will it be Ceviche or Mangrove's, Soho Oasis or Seven 17 South?
The options, of course, are what make south Howard — affectionately known as Restaurant Row — a tantalizing place to consider when the appetite calls. Few places in the area offer so many eateries along one pedestrian stretch, which is why we include it as part of our occasional series on walk-able dining.

Extending roughly from Bayshore to Kennedy boulevards, Restaurant Row literally percolates with places to chow down, from quick bites to big nights, all within a brisk stroll of one another. Happy hour crowds create a bustle early on, followed by mid-evening diners. Another wave arrives as concerts and hockey games let out, and people tarry into the wee hours.
More than 20 restaurants line the avenue, some open for more than 50 years — an anomaly in the business. That historic foundation is what others build on, says Bill Shumate, owner of Bella's and former president of the Florida Restaurant Association.
''I think Bern's being here helped because it established a reputation of excellence in Tampa, the state and the country,'' he says. ''Once you get a pattern of quality established, a reputation, it becomes a norm for what people expect in the area.''
Howard Avenue also has a built-in customer base. It runs smack through some of the most densely packed, and affluent, neighborhoods in Tampa.
''Those neighborhoods are a big help,'' says Joey Reinbold, manager of Mangroves, which has been on the culinary strip for 12 years. ''It's a pretty decent demographic here that's within walking distance to the restaurants.''
The abundance of restaurants, however, comes with a price — parking. Finding a weekend spot requires perseverance and luck, or the necessary evil of the valet.
''Parking is a big problem," Shumate says. "But people seem to come here in spite of it.''
RESTAURANT ROW
Here's a selective look at the restaurants along south Howard Avenue.
1. Mangroves Seafood Grille, 208 S. Howard Ave., (813) 258-3302. Luscious catches from the sea are the marquee event here, although carnivores will want to sink their fangs into the dry-aged Angus Buckhead rib-eye. ($$-$$$)
2. T.C. Choy's Asian Bistro, 301 S. Howard Ave., (813) 251-1191. This Oriental bistro cooks up more than 100 Chinese dishes, including eel, octopus, abalone, and whole duck. ($$)
3. Cheap, 309 S. Howard Ave., (813) 258-5878. Despite its name, Cheap is richly rewarding, offering a tantalizing sampling of small-bite items prepared and presented with an understated, artistic flair. The menu features two columns -- epulae (feast) and crudo (raw fish) -- small portions that double as appetizers and entrees. ($)
4. Taqueria Cantina & Burrito Joint, 402 S. Howard Ave., (813) 259-9982. This is the place to gorge yourself with Mexican food at lunch or dinner, on the cheap and in a casual setting right on the main strip. ($)
5. MacDinton's, 405 S. Howard Ave., (813) 251-8999. Beef stew simmering in vegetables and a rich broth of Guinness Stout is enough to bring the Irish out of anyone, and it's a staple here, along with other gut-busting pub fare. ($)
6. Soho Oasis Cafe, 410 S. Howard Ave., (813) 849-7482. Creative and healthful Lebanese cuisine, featuring a variety of dishes from Shawerma lamb to charbroiled baby quails. And what other restaurant offers a bottle of Chateau Kefraya? ($)
7. Manny's Bistro, 516 S. Howard Ave., (813) 253-0042. The newest kid on the block features American grill fare, including sandwiches, pasta, seafood and beef, with live music on weekends. ($-$$)
8. Evos, 609 S. Howard Ave., (813) 258-3867. The place to go for soy burgers, nutritious smoothies and other healthful goodies. ($)
9. Seven 17 South, 717 S. Howard Ave., (813) 250-1661. The menu features Italian cuisine on one side, Pacific Rim on the other. The kitchen takes its diners on a culinary tour that begins in Tuscany, then jumps to Hawaii, China and Japan. ($$)
10. Royal Palace Thai Restaurant, 811 S. Howard Ave., (813) 258-5893. Enjoy the yum salads, with shrimp, squid or beef in a zesty lime juice-chili sauce with cucumbers, carrots, onions and chili peppers. A chicken version of Nam Sod is a treat. ($$)
11. Daily Eats, 901 S. Howard Ave., (813) 868-3335. Bite into classic American comfort food with gourmet ingredients like cilantro aioli and goat cheese. For dessert, try the bread pudding and pie. ($-$$)
12. The Lime, 915 S. Howard Ave., (813) 868-5463. The Lime excels by mixing standard Mexican dishes -- tacos, enchiladas, quesadillas - with rotisserie-fired lamb, sirloin, pork or chicken, different cheeses and choices of sauce. It's also a hot spot for the young-and-hip. ($$)
13. Mr. T's Italian Restaurant, 927 S. Howard Ave., (813) 251-3969. A Davis Islands landmark in the early 1980s, Mr. T's recently relocated to Restaurant Row, cooking up affordable, no-frills Italian dishes. Go easy on the garlic rolls. ($)
14. Hugo's Spanish Restaurant, 931 S. Howard Ave., (813) 251-2842. Nestled in an 88-year-old building, Hugo's lays no claim to gourmet fare, but prices are reasonable and the grub hearty. Try the chicken and yellow rice. ($)
15. Water, 1015 S. Howard Ave., (813) 251-8406. Clean, crisp and transparent are apt words to describe Water, the simply appointed sushi restaurant connected to Ciccio & Tony's The modest offerings are zesty and fresh, and gracefully priced. ($$)
16. Sidebern's, 2208 W. Morrison Ave., (813) 258-2233. The contemporary alter-ego of its big neighbor, Bern's, this elegant spot serves classy, eye-appealing dinners with a polyglot of flavor sensations. ($$-$$$)
17. Ciccio & Tony's, 1015 S. Howard Ave., (813) 251-8406. With its sassy atmosphere, good food, and local crowds, this restaurant is a weeknight standard for a bite and conversation. "California Bowls," pastas, seafood and pizzas all rock. ($$)
18. Bern's Steak House, 1208 S. Howard Ave., (813) 251-2421. The king of steak houses in Florida, Bern's has been a culinary institution for a half century. People fly in from all over the country to dine here and sample exceptional cuts of beef and the most extensive wine list this side of the moon. Bring your paycheck. ($$$)
19. Sally O'Neal's Pizza Hotline, 1319 S. Howard Ave., (813) 251-0220. Specialties are homemade pies, pastas, calzones and salads. The owners insist on fresh ingredients, fine-quality baker's yeast, double-smoked bacon and high-gluten flour. ($$)
20. Bella's Italian Cafe, 1413 S. Howard Ave., (813) 254-3355. If location is everything, this venerable Hyde Park restaurant will be around for a long time. Bella's features a classy but comfortable ambience and a solid menu of Italian dishes made from scratch, from personal pizzas to veal. A big spot for the late-night crowd. ($$)
21. Ceviche Tapas Bar & Restaurant, 1502 S. Howard Ave., (813) 250-0203. The classy tapas bar and restaurant in the old Le Bordeaux digs presents hot and cold delights in small bites, as well as paella and excellent sangria. The structure was built in 1957, a year after Bern's opened. ($$)

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